Glossary

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  Bias

  The diagonal, 45-degree direction across a woven fabric, where it has the most natural stretch and drape.

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  Ease

  The extra room built into a garment beyond the body's actual measurements, needed for movement and a chosen fit.

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  Grainline

  The direction of the lengthwise threads in woven fabric, used to align pattern pieces for correct drape.

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  Muslin / Toile

  A test version of a garment sewn in cheap fabric to check fit and construction before cutting into the real fashion fabric.

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  Notch

  A small triangular or straight cut into the seam allowance, used to mark matching points between pattern pieces.

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  Right Side / Wrong Side

  The 'right side' is the face of the fabric meant to show on the finished garment; the 'wrong side' is the reverse, usually hidden inside.

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  Seam Allowance

  The extra fabric between the cut edge and the intended stitching line, needed to actually sew a seam without the fabric falling apart.

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  Selvage

  The self-finished, non-fraying edge running along both lengthwise sides of woven fabric.

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  Underlining

  A support fabric cut to the same pattern pieces as the fashion fabric and basted to its wrong side, treated afterward as a single combined layer.