Bias Binding

Bias binding is a strip of fabric — usually about 1" to 2" wide before folding — cut at 45 degrees to the grain rather than along it, then folded (often into double-fold form, both edges tucked toward a center crease) and stitched around a raw edge. Because it's cut on the bias, it has just enough stretch to ease smoothly around a curved neckline or armhole without puckering or straining, something a straight-grain strip simply can't do without gathering slightly at every curve.

I use it constantly for finishing armholes and necklines on sleeveless garments in place of a full facing, and for trimming a hem or edge where I want a visible contrast rather than an invisible finish. You can buy it pre-made in a wide range of widths and colors, which is fine for a quick finish, but cutting and pressing your own from matching or contrasting fabric makes a garment look considerably more intentional.

How I do it:

1. Cut strips at a true 45-degree angle to the grain, piecing shorter strips together on the straight grain if needed for length.
2. Press the strip in half lengthwise, then press both raw edges in to meet the center crease (a bias tape maker makes this fast and even).
3. Sandwich the raw edge of the garment inside the folded binding, pinning as you go around any curves.
4. Stitch through all layers close to the inner fold, easing the binding gently around curves rather than stretching it.