Techniques

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  Bias Binding

  A narrow strip of fabric cut on the bias and folded around a raw edge to finish, bind, or trim it, curving smoothly around corners and curves.

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  Boning a Bodice

  Inserting rigid or semi-rigid strips into channels sewn through a bodice or corset to hold its shape and support the fit.

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  Buttonhole

  A reinforced slit stitched to hold a button, sized to the button's diameter plus its thickness.

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  Dart

  A folded, stitched wedge of fabric used to shape flat cloth around the body's curves.

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  Draping vs. Flat Pattern

  Two different starting points for building a pattern — sculpting fabric directly on a form versus drafting with rulers and math on paper.

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  Flat-Felled Seam

  A durable, fully enclosed seam sewn on the outside of the garment, with two visible rows of topstitching.

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  French Seam

  A self-enclosed seam that hides raw edges, ideal for sheer or lightweight fabrics.

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  Gathering

  Drawing a length of fabric up along one or two rows of stitching to fit a shorter edge, creating soft, even fullness.

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  Pleating

  Folding fabric back on itself in a controlled, repeated pattern to reduce a wider edge to a narrower one while keeping crisp, defined folds.

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  Zipper Insertion

  Setting a zipper into a seam so it opens and closes smoothly with the teeth or coil hidden or deliberately exposed, depending on the method.