Zipper Insertion

There are several standard ways to set a zipper, and which one you reach for depends entirely on where it's going and how visible you want it to be. A centered zipper sits with an even line of stitching on both sides, straightforward and symmetrical — good for center-back dress openings. A lapped zipper hides the teeth under a fold of fabric on one side, so only a single line of stitching shows — more common on skirts and trousers. An exposed zipper does the opposite on purpose, showing the teeth as a design feature.

The zipper foot is non-negotiable for any of these — it's narrower than a standard presser foot and shifts to one side, letting the needle stitch right up against the raised teeth or coil without the foot itself getting in the way. Basting the zipper in place by hand before machine-stitching is the step I never skip, even though it's slower; unpicking machine stitches next to a zipper without snagging or breaking it is genuinely unpleasant, and basting first means I very rarely have to.

How I do it (lapped method):

1. Baste the seam closed where the zipper will go, then press the seam allowance open.
2. Position the zipper face-down on one seam allowance, teeth along the seamline, and stitch it in place close to the teeth using a zipper foot.
3. Fold the garment so that seam allowance wraps around and hides the zipper, then topstitch through both layers from the right side, following a marked stitching line about 1/4" from the seam.
4. Remove the basting stitches from the original seam to reveal the finished zipper.