Pressing

Pressing and ironing aren't the same thing. Ironing slides the iron back and forth to remove wrinkles from finished clothes. Pressing lifts the iron and lowers it onto one spot at a time, usually with steam, to set a seam, flatten a fold or shape the fabric. Sliding the iron during sewing stretches edges and distorts curves. Pressing doesn't.

Good pressing is one of the biggest differences between a garment that looks homemade and one that looks professionally made. The rule is simple: press each seam before it's crossed by another one.

How to press a seam

1. Press it flat as sewn, with the two layers still together, to set the stitches into the fabric.
2. Open it out and press the allowances open or to one side, as the pattern directs, using the point of the iron along the seamline.
3. Press again from the right side, through a press cloth if needed.
4. Let it cool before moving the piece. The fabric sets as it cools and dries.

Pressing tools

• Tailor's ham: a firm, rounded cushion for pressing darts, curved seams and shaped areas without flattening them. See Dart.
• Sleeve roll: a long, firm cushion for pressing sleeve seams and other narrow tubes, and for pressing seams open without the allowance edges imprinting.
• Clapper: a block of hardwood pressed onto a seam or crease straight after steaming, to set it flat and sharp without shine. It's essential for wool.
• Press cloth: a piece of fabric between the iron and the garment to prevent shine and scorching. Silk organza is see-through and heat-resistant. Cotton muslin, dampened, adds steam.
• Point presser: a narrow wooden tool for pressing open seams inside collar points and corners.
• Sleeve board: a small ironing board for sleeves and small pieces.
• Needle board or velvet board: a surface of fine bristles for pressing pile fabrics without crushing them. See Nap.

Pressing different fabrics

• Cotton and linen: hot iron, plenty of steam.
• Wool: moderate heat, steam, a press cloth to prevent shine, and a clapper. Wool can be shrunk and shaped with steam, which is the basis of tailoring. See Wool Flannel.
• Silk: low heat, a press cloth, little or no steam. Test first, because some silks water-spot.
• Synthetics: low heat, a press cloth. Many melt or glaze under a hot iron. See Synthetic Fibers.
• Pile and napped fabrics: from the wrong side, face down on a needle board or towel, with steam and very little pressure.

Always test on a scrap first, with the same heat, steam and press cloth you plan to use.

Avoiding marks

• Slip strips of brown paper under seam allowances and darts, so their edges don't imprint through to the right side.
• Don't press over pins, which leave marks, or over basting in polyester thread.
• Press from the wrong side wherever possible, especially on dark fabrics.