Needle, Thread & Stitch Length Chart
Which machine needle, thread and stitch length to use for chiffon, cotton, linen, wool, denim, jersey, spandex and more - a searchable chart, plus a millimetre to stitches-per-inch converter.
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Most stitching problems people blame on their machine (skipped stitches, puckering, snagged threads, holes in knits) come from the wrong needle for the fabric. This chart is the starting point I use. Always sew a test seam on a scrap of the real fabric, folded double, before starting a garment.
| Fabric | Needle | Thread | Stitch length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chiffon, georgette, organza, silk habotai | Microtex 60/8-70/10 | Fine polyester or silk | 1.8-2.2 mm | Hold fabric gently taut; tissue paper underneath helps. French seams. |
| Lawn, voile, batiste | Microtex or universal 70/10 | All-purpose polyester or 50 wt cotton | 2.0-2.2 mm | Fine pins only; they mark easily. |
| Crepe de chine, charmeuse, satin | Microtex 70/10 | All-purpose polyester or silk | 2.0-2.5 mm | A fresh, sharp needle prevents snags and pulled threads. |
| Rayon challis, viscose | Microtex or universal 70/10-80/12 | All-purpose polyester | 2.0-2.5 mm | Shifts while cutting; pre-wash, it shrinks. |
| Quilting cotton, poplin, shirting | Universal 80/12 | All-purpose polyester or 50 wt cotton | 2.5 mm | The default setting for most beginner projects. |
| Linen, medium weight | Universal 80/12-90/14 | All-purpose polyester | 2.5-3.0 mm | Frays readily; finish seams promptly. |
| Wool crepe, wool suiting, flannel | Universal 80/12-90/14 | All-purpose polyester or silk | 2.5-3.0 mm | Press with a cloth; silk thread for basting won't leave marks. |
| Wool coating, melton, canvas | Universal or jeans 90/14-100/16 | All-purpose or heavy-duty polyester | 3.0-3.5 mm | A walking foot helps thick layers feed evenly. |
| Denim, light to medium | Jeans/denim 90/14-100/16 | All-purpose polyester; topstitch thread for topstitching | 2.5-3.0 mm (topstitching 3.0-3.5 mm) | Use a topstitch needle with topstitch thread. |
| Heavy denim, heavy twill | Jeans/denim 100/16-110/18 | Heavy-duty polyester | 3.0-3.5 mm | Hammer thick seams flat; walk the machine over humps. |
| Corduroy, velvet, velveteen | Universal or Microtex 70/10-80/12 | All-purpose polyester | 2.5-3.0 mm | Walking foot; cut all pieces in one direction for the nap. |
| Cotton or rayon jersey, single knit | Ballpoint/jersey 70/10-80/12 | All-purpose polyester (not cotton) | Narrow zigzag (0.5 wide × 2.5 long) or stretch stitch | An overlocker is ideal; a twin needle for hems. |
| Ponte, interlock, sweatshirt fleece | Ballpoint 80/12-90/14 | All-purpose polyester | Narrow zigzag or stretch stitch, 2.5-3.0 mm | Stable knits; easier than jersey for a first knit project. |
| Spandex/Lycra blends, swimwear, activewear | Stretch 75/11-90/14 | Polyester or nylon; woolly nylon in the overlocker loopers | Zigzag or stretch stitch | Stretch needles prevent skipped stitches on elastic fabrics. |
| Real leather, suede | Leather 90/14-100/16 | Polyester (not cotton, which rots) | 3.0-4.0 mm | Every hole is permanent: no pins, use clips, don't unpick. |
| Faux leather, vinyl, PU-coated fabric | Microtex or universal 80/12-90/14 | All-purpose polyester | 3.0-3.5 mm | Leather needles tear faux leather; a Teflon or roller foot stops sticking. |
| Basting (any fabric) | As for the fabric | Any; contrast colour helps | 4.0-5.0 mm | Don't backstitch, so it pulls out easily. |
| Gathering stitches (any fabric) | As for the fabric | All-purpose polyester in the bobbin | 4.0-5.0 mm | Loosen top tension slightly. See Gathering. |
Stitch length converter
Modern machines set stitch length in millimetres. Older machines, vintage patterns and some American instructions use stitches per inch (SPI). They're inversely related: SPI = 25.4 ÷ length in mm.
For reference: 2.5 mm is about 10 stitches per inch, 2 mm about 12-13, and 3 mm about 8.
Reading needle sizes
Machine needles carry two numbers, such as 80/12. The first is the European metric size (the blade diameter in hundredths of a millimetre), the second is the American size. Bigger numbers are thicker needles for heavier fabrics and thicker thread. The tip type matters as much as the size:
- Universal: a slightly rounded point that works on most wovens and some stable knits.
- Microtex (sharp): a very fine, sharp point for silks, microfibres, densely woven fabrics and precise topstitching.
- Ballpoint / jersey: a rounded point that pushes between knit loops instead of piercing them, preventing holes and runs.
- Stretch: a medium ball point and a special eye and scarf that prevent skipped stitches on elastic fabrics like spandex.
- Jeans / denim: a strong, sharp, reinforced shaft for dense wovens and thick layers.
- Topstitch: an extra-large eye and deep groove for thick topstitching thread.
- Leather: a cutting (wedge) point for real leather only.
Thread basics
A good all-purpose polyester thread suits most garment sewing, including knits, because it has a little stretch. Cotton thread is lovely on cotton and linen but has no stretch, so it can snap in knit seams. Silk thread is fine and strong. It's ideal for silk and wool and for basting, because it doesn't leave holes or press marks. Use the same thread in the top and bobbin unless a technique says otherwise, and match the thread weight to the needle: thick topstitching thread needs a topstitch needle's larger eye.
When to change the needle
Needles dull and burr long before they look damaged. Start each new project with a fresh needle, change it after roughly 8 hours of sewing, and change it immediately if you hear a popping or thudding sound as it pierces the fabric, or if stitches start skipping. A bent or burred needle can also snag the fabric and damage the machine's hook.